My Paris Favorites - September 7, 2025

Bonjour!

It’s “back to school” time in France, which also marks the official end of summer. And this year, the change was brutal. On September 1st, boom, the weather turned rainy and cold.

Usually, September and early October bring us beautiful sunny days, what we call l’été indien (Indian summer). I wasn’t ready for this switch at all and got veeery grumpy.

Luckily, the weather improved this weekend. And right after I hit send on this newsletter, I’ll hop on a bike (yes, still hooked!) to explore and test new Paris addresses under the sun.

 

❤️ Paris insider guide: my favorite addresses

Restaurant Annette – 4 boulevard Raspail, Paris

Annette is the restaurant of Le Grand Hôtel Cayré, a hotel that attracts an international crowd (I overheard some American guests chatting in the lobby). The location is amazing, just a minute’s walk from metro Rue du Bac, right in Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

The decor is very 19th century, with classic black-and-white-clad servers. Chic, but not overly fancy. At lunch, the vibe was relaxed yet elegant. And most important, the food was excellent: creative but not exaggerated. I had trout for the main dish and a chocolate mousse for dessert. Delicious!

They also have a small terrace outside with just a few tables. Perfect for a coffee or an apéritif, but I wouldn’t recommend it for a full meal, it’s on a busy boulevard and a bit noisy.

Swimming in the Seine

I set myself two challenges this summer: trying Vélib bikes and swimming in the Seine. I "conquered" the Vélib and loved it. But swimming? I didn’t make it. I guess I chickened out a little. And now I regret it, because reviews from those who tried have been so positive! More than 100,000 people swam at the official free spots this summer. Clearly, Parisians loved it. Maybe next year I’ll be brave enough!

 

✨ Discover France: handpicked travel reads

Today I want to talk about viennoiseries, those quintessential French treats. Recently, several famous pastry chefs have started revisiting them, and I have mixed feelings.

Traditionally, viennoiseries are the pride of neighborhood bakeries: simple, perfect, and affordable. When big names launch their own versions, it’s tempting, of course. Take Pierre Hermé, the macaron master. He opened a pop-up this fall with his revisited viennoiseries. I tried the passion fruit pain au chocolat. Price: 4€—double the usual price. It was good, yes, but honestly, I wasn’t fascinated. I probably won’t go back.

Maybe I’m conservative on this subject, but I really admire the bakers who craft amazing viennoiseries every day without marketing frills, just talent and hard work. So today I want to share a few links if you’d like to learn more (and maybe get hungry!):

Merci beaucoup for reading and for being part of this lovely community! I’m so glad to share a bit of Paris life with you every time.
Wishing you beautiful days, from Paris,

Mathilde V.